June 24
We arrived around mid morning to the flat we had rented for our stay. Given the early morning flight, we took a little nap and got up around 12 to head out and grab some lunch.
We started by walking around the area we were staying in, Beyoglu.
I was blown away by the window displays of baklava. I had always associated the sweet treat as being greek, but it turns out to be more Ottoman empire and Turkish than Greek.
We ended up getting lunch near the Galata Tower at a place called KIVA. While were were in there we saw 2 other tour guides eating lunch, so we felt proud of ourselves for finding the good spot! Jeffrey was playing it safe with chicken and I went for some of the chefs specials. Both were really good and started to get us excited about the food tour we had booked for the next day.
After seeing so many baklava places, I was finally able to convince Jeffrey into stopping at one in Tasik Square. We tried a few varieties and some traditional Turkish tea. They tasted just as expected!
After our snack we went back to get rest up for dinner and take a little nap.
June 25
We started our day out with a food tour that met at the Maritime Museum. We had a great guide who really explained the culture and history of Istanbul more to us. We new starting out that when booking this trip and tour, it was in the middle of ramadan. In ramadan the muslims fast from sun up to sun down. So we thought it was going to be tricky eating or drinking anything during the day. We definitely got some interesting looks, but our guide was able to help ensure the group was respectful by eating inside vs outside of the restaurants and finishing our 'tastes' before going onto the streets. There was only one neighborhoods that was very conservative, most everywhere was okay to eat out in the open.
Our first stop of the day was to a filo cheese dish that was more of a walk up type location. Similar to spanakopita but only with cheese.
The second place we stopped was for our main breakfast. We tried an egg dish, fried dough with cream and honey, and some turkish tea. Jeffrey loved the egg dish and I loved the dough with honey and cream :)
Our third stop was a meat and cheese shop. We got to try 3 different types of turkish cheese, such as turkish gouda and white cheese, as well as some turkish pastrami.
To give our bellies some room to digest the food, we headed across the river to explore another neighborhood. Our 4th stop was inside more of a cafeteria type establishment where we got to try a variety of dishes including, some chickpeas with currant and lamb, smoked eggplant puree, lava beans, and green beans. Most of the veggies were cooked with olive oil and the eggplant sticks out in mind the most from this place, as it was really smoky but delicious. This was the most conservative of the neighborhoods that we visited, so we skipped the market and headed to the Asian side to explore a more posh and liberal neighborhood.
Our 5th stop was in our last neighborhood. We had some 'flying' fish (see picture), fried fish bites, carrot with yogurt, puree lava beans, hummus and some eggplant meze. The flying fish is what stands out to me most from here.
Our 6th stop was right down the road. We got to try some dolmas (grape vines leaves wrapped around rice, beans, lamb, and cooked with cherries in the dish), turkish nuggets (tiny little ravoli with yogurt inside and topped with chili oil) and some rice pudding with cinnamon sprinkled on top. The dolmas were some of the best I have ever had and very different with the cherry twist (I don't normally like them but loved them here.) What stands out the most looking back through is the turkish nugget/ravoli (see picture). This was very unique and we had never had anything like it before but very good!
Our guide gave us a food guide book to help us explore more culinary delights during the rest of our visit. We did the tour with Istanbul Eats, specifically the 3 villages 2 continents tour and highly recommend them if you are considering visiting.
After spending the day with our group, we thought we would continue our adventure together and visit the 'New' Mosque. It was built after the Blue Mosque, so it was called the new mosque, however it is still quite old given construction started in 1595 and finished in 1663. Some say it is just a beautiful and impressive as the Blue Mosque. There was no line to enter it and we thought it was just a beautiful as the other personally.
I had to cover my head and arms with one of the robes
& we both had to remove our shoes to enter.
Given it was Ramadan, there was a special exhibit that is only open during this time of year so we ventured that way to check it out.
The architecture, style and culture were so different than anything we have ever experienced before. We planned our visit to the New Mosque around the call to prayer. The call to prayer is done 5 times a day and is played on loud mega phones throughout the city. It was very uncomfortable to hear the first time but then we got used to it. Given the mosque are so closely located together, they take turns doing the call to prayer so they are not going over each other. The times we had to be aware of for visiting were around 1-2 and 5 in the evening. Friday was also particular busy given this is when men get together weekly to do their special prayer and worship together.
Next we wondered through the Spice Market.
A couple on our tour had been the day before so they took us to their favorite vendor.
This place had spices, teas, and even turkish delights
and of course we tried a little bit of everything...
and even brought home a few taste to savor with the family when we got stateside!
Throughout our time and walking adventures, we stumbled upon several staircases that were painted rainbow colors. These stairs were not for the LBGT community but more to make people smile and stand up the government. It originally started with one staircase but then spread to other neighborhoods as a trend.
I thought this was a really pretty painting of the skyline in Istanbul that was in the hallway of our flat.
June 26
We started this day by going to the Grand Bazar. It is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world. They everything you could ever want in here... and it was very easy to get lost in there!
I of course wanted to do a little scarf shopping! I ended up with 2 scarfs to remember our trip with :) A pink silk one and a blue light summer silk one.
The public transportation was crucial here because of all the hills!
We still got a good workout walking around though!
After the Grand Bazar we went to the Topkapi Palace.
There was very close and great views of the Haghai Sofia and the Blue Mosque.
We have seen several grand European style palaces, so it was pretty neat to see palace for a sultan of the Ottoman Empire.
Nice view over to the Asian side!
This is inside the Haghia Sophia. The first church on this site was burned down in 404, the second was destroyed by riots in 532, and the third was built in 537 by Emperor Justinian and still stands today. It was converted into a mosque in 1453 and then into a museum in 1934.
Walking through it you can definitely see some of the Christian influences
and the more recent Muslim history.
June 27
It was quite impressive walking up to it!
The dress code was very strict for both men and women.
I was surprised they waved us on through with my arms so exposed.
This mosque has 6 minarets (pillars) and no other mosque has this many outside Mecca.
After the Blue Mosque, we wondered around and stumbled across another bazaar that focused more on carpets and rugs.
After the shopping and exploring we were ready to rest our feet and do some good old fashion people watching. It was our last day in Istanbul so really wanted to soak it all in.
We ended up having dinner around the same area and saw this flame dish being brought out, so we had to check it out for ourselves.
Basically, it is a clay pot that the food is cooked in. They break open the pot and serve out it.
The presentation and show was pretty cool but the food was just okay haha.
On the way back we saw the Blue Mosque all lit up at night and it seems like all the people came from no where into the parks for picnics.
This place was basically empty during the day and was so busy at night, it took my by surprise. We saw families sitting down to eat just like they do all over the world. Having spent several days in a muslim city, we both had a much greater appreciation for the diversity and way of life people have all over the world. I am really glad that we stepped out of our comfort zone and were able to experience this city full of life and history.
